Aaron Kwok
It almost feels like you need a biology degree to decipher a jar of face cream these days due to all the recent scientific advancements in skincare. In addition to buzzy ingredients like exosomes and PDRN, growth factor serums are another type of futuristic formula on the rise. Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins that are produced by your body’s cells, and they’re essential to healthy skin. “They act as signaling molecules that communicate with skin cells to stimulate collagen production, promote cell turnover, enhance wound healing, and improve overall skin tone and texture,” explains double-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Eunice Park, MD.
Vogue’s Favorite Growth Factor Serums
- Best Overall: SkinMedica TNS Advanced+ Serum, $295
- Best for Wrinkles: Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Plasma, $200
- Best Budget: The Ordinary GF 15% Solution, $16
- Best for Sensitive Skin: Epi.Logic Master Plan Collagen Renew Growth Factor Serum, $230
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Best for Crow’s Feet: iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex, $120
Unfortunately, our natural production of growth factors declines as we get older, says board-certified internist and longevity expert Amanda Kahn, MD. “This contributes to the thinning, wrinkled, less firm, less elastic, and sagging skin we see with age,” she explains. By replenishing your skin’s reserves of these powerhouse proteins, a good growth factor serum can help the skin function at its best—and ultimately, look its best too. “They can help with cell turnover and collagen production that can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles,” says double-board-certified dermatologist Lauren Moy, MD.
Faster cellular turnover and increased collagen production translate into firmer, smoother, glowing skin that looks clear, fresh, and even—you know, everything on your wish list from a beauty product. What’s especially valuable about growth factor serums is that they tend to be non-irritating. Growth factors work slowly to transform your skin, unlike harsher, faster-acting actives like exfoliating acids and retinoids.
Sold? We’re not surprised. But don’t go shopping just yet: Growth factor serums are not all created equally, and this is a complex category to navigate. With the help of our experts, we’re breaking down exactly what these actives are, what you should look for in an effective product, and a few of our favorite formulas to add to your cart.
Best for Wrinkles: Dr. Diamond’s Metacine Instafacial Plasma
Why We Love It: This cult-favorite formula was inspired by the founder’s signature in-office facial, which uses a combination of lasers, microneedling, and PRP to dramatically transform skin—hence the slightly spooky red serum, which is packed with five bio-engineered growth factors, peptides, and skin hydrators to leave you glowing. Though this formula is safe (and fabulous) to slather on post-procedure, you don’t need to get a pro treatment to see results. It’s clinically proven to improve wrinkles, even deep forehead lines.
Key Ingredients: Synthetic growth factors (peptides), antiaging peptides, sodium hyaluronate
Size: 1 fl. oz.
